Orchid Care Tips from an Orchid Conservatory
Posted by Just Add Ice Orchids... It's Just That Simple. on Tue, Mar 02, 2010
Steve Urick, a horticulturist at the Arthur and Phyllis Kaplan Orchid Conservatory at Old Dominion University in Norfolk, Virginia, offered tips for new orchid enthusiasts. He should know, too—he takes care of 400 species of orchids among more than 1,500 plants—in addition to the almost 2,000 he keeps at home, according to The Deseret News.
"Most people worry and fuss too much over their plants," says Steve. "Orchids are easy to grow, much easier than African violets and many other flowering houseplants."
Light needs:
- Low light (east window): Phalaenopsis (moth orchids), Paphiopedilum (slipper orchids) and seedlings.
- Medium light (south, east or west window): Cattleya, Dendrobium and Oncidium.
- High light (south window): Cymbidium, Brassavola and Vanda.
Temperature needs:
- Almost all orchids do well with daytime temperatures 65-85 degrees Fahrenheit but here's what different species need for nighttime temps during winter:
- Warm (60-65 degrees): Phalaenopsis, Paphiopedilum with mottled leaves, Dendrobium phalaenopsis and seedings.
- Intermediate (55-60 degrees): Cattleya, Oncidium and Paphiopedilum with solid green leaves.
- Cool (50-55 degrees): Cymbidium, Dendrobium nobile and Dracula/Masdevallia.
Moisture: Let an orchid get almost dry before watering it. Sit pots on trays of pebbles/water to provide extra humidity during winter. For optimal watering, use 3 ice cubes a week for a perfectly measures amount of water.
Fertilizer: Use a good orchid fertilizer according to directions.
For outdoor container gardening during summer, try Reed-stem epidendrum, a "fireworks" orchid that grows nicely in a pot, giving you flowers spring to fall. During winter, put it indoors in a sunny window. Such a display can be seen at the conservatory, which is open to free public tours 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday through Friday. You can read more about it at their website.